Suffering from Incurable Keys Disease!

When trailering our boat to the Keys, we had the added benefit of having our truck nearby, making it easier to stay a distance from downtown Key West. As we’ve mentioned many times before, our favorite spot is Key West Harbour Marina, on Stock Island. The best of both worlds when visiting Key West. Keys Disease is kind of like a virus that once caught stays in your system forever. It shows up like clockwork as soon as we hit the string of islands south of Florida.

Taking the Conch Tour Train was a new experience for us. Although we have extensively walked the streets of Key West, we learned a lot about the history and downtown area during the tour.

Happy hour in Key West is one of our favorite things and NO, we did not visit the upper floor of the Garden of Eden.

Key West is well known for its nightly sunset celebration. This night the event was in full swing with the promise of a stunning sunset for the crowds amassed on Mallory Square. Before sunset, the street entertainers will capture your attention with stunning acrobatics or other fascinating shows.

We all come for the sunset because it is spectacular. A true Key West ritual.

One night we treated ourselves to a show at La Te Da, famous for its female impersonators. Great Show!

We met up with friends Rick, on Wishing Star, and Denise and Jeff downtown at the A&B Marina. Happy Hour on the boat and dinner on the beach later.

We are always happy to meet up with Ranger Tug friends, Dominic and Caroline (above), on Poppy. They brought their tug down to Key West to meet family, so we got to meet them for a Cuban lunch at El Siboney Restaurant.

I’m calling this a “barnacle truck.” (Above)

I am totally fascinated by these Shaving BrushTree flowers (Pseudobombax Ellipticum).

St Patrick’s Day was in full swing when we toured downtown one night near the end of our stay in Key West. All sorts of leprechauns and fairies wandering the streets of Key West.

Our new favorite Happy Hour bar and restaurant is 2 Cents. Free bacon is served while you roll the dice to determine the price you will pay for a drink (see photo above right).

Another great happy hour establishment is the fabulous Kelly’s Caribbean Bar and Grill. Great margaritas and wings.

One day we visited the Key West Art & Historical Society. We learned a lot about Ernest Hemingway and his time spent in the Keys.

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Boaterhoming Our Way to Fairhope Alabama

After leaving Joe Wheeler State Park after the AGLCA rendezvous we headed south with Fairhope Alabama as our intended launch site. However, after a late start and a long day’s drive, we called it quits when we got to Greenville, Alabama, and found this rustic RV park about a mile off I-65. Stopping here for the night gave us the opportunity to arrive at Fairhope early in the day. The park was quiet except for an evening symphony of cricket chirping in a swamp nearby.

We have been by this way twice before and each time stayed at Eastern Shores Marina in Fairhope, Alabama. We ran into Ed, the harbormaster, at the AGLCA rendezvous a few days ago and made arrangements then to secure a slip and check into good launch sites. He suggested the Fairhope Yacht Club across the inlet, since he is a member he offered to go over there with us when we arrived to use their ramp (above).

Finally! Back in the water.

It’s a small world because we ran into another MTOA members, Ken and Ann Shanley, on Charis (below), they were staying on the yacht club docks, just across from Eastern Shore Marina. The Shanley’s are in the middle of their Great Loop adventure.

The first time we were in Fairhope was just months after Katrina hit the Mobile Bay area, in December of 2005. We remember the high waterline mark lining the walls of the office back then. The second time we were there, in 2007, the water line was preserved as it is today (above and below).

Debbie (below), was a bright spot in our morning when we visited the marina office. She went over the chart on the wall and gave us a few good anchoring spots in the panhandle. She knows her stuff! One of the reasons we love staying at Eastern Shore Marina is the staff is so helpful and accommodating. Another reason we like this marina so much is it is chock full of genuinely rustic, old south character, we find this atmosphere missing from some of the newer marinas we visit.

One of the reasons we decided on Fairhope for a launch spot for this year’s fall cruise is because of family. My brother Jem, his wife, Patti, and his extended family moved to Fairhope about four years ago and whenever we can visit with them is precious time spent.

My beautiful niece, Jena (above-left). My brother, Jem, and I (below).

My handsome nephew, Jay, Jim, me, my brother’s wife Patti, and my brother, Jem (below).

Jim took me to a TOPLESS BEACH today!

One thing we had never done before when staying at Eastern Shore was to take a dinghy ride up Fly Creek, starting just around the bend from the marina. It was such a nice day and we were enjoying the fresh, warm air we decided to launch the dinghy and head up the creek. The dinghy ride began immediately with the “Topless Beach” (above). What followed was a spectacular windy creek with a few boats and all levels of party shacks, my term, don’t know what locals call them, lining the shore. The party shacks I am referring to are open-air tiki-type huts probably used to cool off down by the creek when it’s hot. Some were basic in accommodations, with hammocks and coolers. Others were decked out with bars, electric fans, big-screen TVs, and comfortable furniture. The creek seemed to go on forever and finally, we decided to turn back, we think we only got about halfway. So, if you are staying at Eastern Shore Marina, don’t miss this fun dinghy ride.

We loved the Boater’s Lounge at the marina.

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When leaving Key West by water, and heading east to Marathon, there are two Intracoastal Waterways (ICW) route choices. There is the unobstructed, direct route of Hawk Channel which runs parallel to the Keys and cuts into Florida Bay at Marathon. Hawk Channel is somewhat protected from the coral reefs that separate it from the Atlantic Ocean; this is the most popular route because you don’t need to worry about dodging shallow water.

We’ve taken Hawk Channel several times but have never taken the route less traveled, the Florida Bay ICW. One of the reasons the route north of the Keys to Marathon is not preferred is because of the shallower water depths. With a 2.5-foot draft on our Ranger Tug, we felt we’d have plenty of water below us. Besides we were up for a new adventure, and we wanted to take a route we’d never done before. Our objective was to slowly cruise the 30 miles to Marathon by anchoring out for a couple of nights enjoying one of Mother Nature’s many gifts.

For a short bit, were escorted by a school of dolphins who were playing tag around our boat in the white sand-bottomed crystal clear waters of the Keys.

Our first stop was an anchorage behind some mangrove islands in Jewfish Basin where we were serenaded by birds and saw plenty of rays. We took time to have a little lunch before we went to explore the surrounding islands by dinghy.

Breakfast on the back deck this morning (below)

On the second day out, we re-entered the ICW to head to Porpoise Key and our second night’s anchorage. Porpoise Key sits just off of Big Pine and No Name Keys, within seven miles of Marathon. So, I guess we averaged 10 miles a day for the three days it took us to get to Marathon, that’s the way we like to cruise, slow enough that we can absorb our surroundings – this time we enjoyed the crystal clear and shallow waters around the many scattered islands on the Florida Bay side of the Keys.

The Seven Mile Bridge provides a pass from the Florida Bay side to the Hawk Channel side. You can access Marathon by either side but this time we’ll be picking up a mooring ball in Boot Key Harbor, so we have to go under the bridge, turning to the east, to get there.

One of our favorite harbors to enter, this channel into Book Key is a boater’s visual delight.

We grabbed this mooring ball for a two-night stay in Marathon. We had some friends to meet and work to catch up on before we reclaim our truck and trailer (which Jim drove up here a week ago) and take our boat out of the water to head north.

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One last walk around Key West before we start heading north up the Keys, through Florida, and finally home to Michigan.

Key West is a visual delight…

We met Anne and Hank, Queen Anne’s Revenge, on our second Great Loop boat trip. We were happy to see them again and share lunch at Salute’s, on the beach.

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We left Key West Harbour early in the morning – with calmer waters and clear skies forecasted, we thought it was time for a little excursion to the Marquesas Keys. The Marquesas sit 18 nautical miles west of Key West and are uninhabited. Our thoughts were that it would be fun to anchor out and enjoy the serenity of these isolated Keys.

Although It was a pleasant enough cruise out, shortly after we had cruised halfway around the island and dropped anchor the wind kicked up. There really wasn’t an option to move to the lee side of the island because the water depth around the island is VERY shallow for a long way out, so even the lee side would have been a problem because we’d have to anchor far away from the shore where the wind had plenty of access to us. With no protection available to keep from rocking and rolling, we had to abort the mission, it would have been an ugly night.

We are just passing Key West here (above) heading towards the Flats and finally the Marquesas Keys.

On our way back from Marquesas Keys at the height of the day the water was a gorgeous turquoise and dark green in spots – with the deep blue skies and puffy white clouds, it almost seemed surreal.

We retreated to the flats area where we knew we could find shelter from the high winds and spent an enjoyable night anchored on the lee side of Barracouta Keys, in the Lakes Passage area. As you can see much calmer waters and a glowing sunset greeted us for a peaceful night at anchor.

In the morning we got up and headed toward downtown Key West.

The last part of the trip included a cruise past the southern part of Key West, the anchorages, cruise ships, and fishing boats.

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As you can see from the photo (below-left) we were not disappointed. Jim ordered creme brûlée and I got the signature dish, “Better than Sex.” They assured us both selections would live up to our expectations. Jim, of course, wanted to know if there was a money-back guarantee if the dessert did not live up to the name of the establishment.

We liked the games on the table. It kept us entertained as we waited for our desserts to arrive.

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Not only does it boast a colorful, tropical splendor but Key West is a little unconventional with its kooky signs and unusual, creatively painted or put-together, bikes, and vehicles.

Here is something new we saw in Key West this year. Not sure what to call it but doesn’t it look like fun?

A solar bike with storage to boot. Who would have thought?  Lots of sunshine in the Keys, so why not?

One of our favorite signs in Key West is Love Lane.

The crew on Illusions (Ranger Tug R27), Mike and Jess arrived in Key West with their friends, Ginny and Dave. Of course, this called for a night on the town, eating, walking, and shopping.

It’s rare to walk the docks of Key West at the end of the day and not see fish being cleaned and gutted. The pelicans are always in attendance to snack on the discarded scraps.

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Ever since we arrived for our month-long stay, it’s been very windy and this has inhibited our plans to explore the surrounding area of Key West by boat; we were getting itchy to push away from the dock. We’re usually not interested in taking random boat rides, so when we do sever the dock lines and head out, we like to have a purpose and a plan. Key West, being the southernmost spot in the U.S., is somewhat at the end of the road and although the cruising options for a day out on the water are limited, the choices are unique. The Dry Tortugas, Marquesas Keys, and the flats, in the Lakes Passage, all sit west of Key West and it was the grassy flats we chose for a day cruise.

We left Key West behind us (above) as we approached the shallow waters of the flats (below).

The Lake Passage area is a 10 by 4.5 nautical mile area that starts a few miles west of Mallory Square. This area is referred to as the flats because the clear, sandy-bottomed, water has a relatively consistent shallow depth of two to six feet. The flats also encompass the Key West National Wildlife Refuge and Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary and are a big attraction for fishing and snorkeling enthusiasts.

Because of the shallow water in the flats, it’s unreachable by larger boats with deeper keels, ours was about the largest vessel we saw cruising the area. With a draft of two-and-a-half feet, we even had a hard time entering the marked channel off Mule Key, and we were there on a rising tide. Once inside the flats, we meandered through at 6 MPH all the while keeping an eye out for stingrays, turtles, and fish. We saw some of each as we cruised by Archer and Man Keys. We pulled into the lee side of Barracouta Key and dropped the hook to take a break, have lunch and relax while enjoying the surroundings and listening to the bird songs before we pushed on.

With almost violet blue skies and emerald green waters, we had to keep reminding ourselves that we were still in the states and not cruising in the Bahamas or Abaco Islands.

Our goal today was to cruise to Boca Grande Key, situated at the very end of the flats. From there we could just barely make out the east side of Marquesas Keys, which lies only 9 nautical miles further west of Boca Grande Key. Upon arrival to Boca Grande Key, we couldn’t help but marvel at how much the natural white sand beach, on the NW side (above and below) of the island and the turquoise waters below us, resembled the rural Abaco Islands. All this within a boater’s short reach, just a little bit west of Key West.

It was a pretty rocky ride back to the marina but we were glad to have been able to get away for the afternoon and see some new sights.

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We met up with our friend Rick at A & B Marina, in Key West and a few days later we inducted him into the Turtle club.

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Our first walk in Key West led us to find these beautiful tropical flowers (they had fallen below the tree just as you see them here). Apparently, they are from a Pink Bombax, Shaving-Brush Tree, this deciduous tree is native to tropical Mexico. The tree is mostly leafless this time of year, better to see these pink beauties.

They start as a brown/yellow banana-shaped bud (below-left) which peels down to reveal the pink “shaving brush” flower within. Just one small reason why we love tropical Key West.

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After three grueling days camping out on Kismet in the boatyard, putting bottom paint on, we arrived at our most southern destination for our winter 2012 boating season, Key West – Stock Island actually, one island up from Key West. We’ll be docked for a month at Key West Harbour. Stock Island is close enough to Key West to have fun in the popular tourist town when desired and far enough away to enjoy a relaxed marina setting with beach and pool amenities.

This year we procured a slip in the outer basin which is lined with mangroves. We are nestled into our big slip, with a bathhouse and boater’s “tiki hut” lounge nearby, we are happy captain and crew during our stay at Key West Harbour.

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Bottom paints are like opinions; there is plenty of each. There are several brands we could have chosen but in the end, I decided on Pettit Vivid for the bottom paint and their corresponding Pettit Skip Sand Primer. The primer is described as a “pre-treatment primer designed to adhere tenaciously to an un-sanded fiberglass gel coat.” We lightly sanded the hull anyway, so the primer should stick well. I applied one coat of the gray primer, then two coats of the Pettit Vivid (three coats at the water line).

It’s very satisfying to see the final result of all my hard work. Now we can rest easy and not be concerned with what is going on underneath the boat.

The nasty, but very necessary, job of bottom painting was completed within 48 hours. We stayed on the hard one more night to let the paint dry and we were back in the water 68 hours after our haul out.

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We never addressed the issue of bottom painting our Ranger Tug until one day, while taking our boat out of the water in Ft Myers Beach; we were surprised by the excessive growth of barnacles on the hull of Kismet. We recognized the problem and we wanted to take care of it ASAP. After arranging to have our boat hauled by 3D, a self-service boat yard in Key West, I began researching how to clean the hull and what to apply to help the process along and what kind of paint we might need. Because we use our boat in salt and fresh water, trailer it and, at times, it will sit out of the water, we found we needed to have a hard ablative paint for our particular usage.

After leaving Marathon and arriving in Key West, we launched our boat on Stock Island and cruised the short distance to the 3D Boat Yard to have Kismet hauled out by a travel lift for the first time. After a thorough power washing and initial scraping, the boat was settled onto jack stands and wood blocks for three days of bottom prep and painting “fun.”

This was our “home” for three days while I worked on this nasty chore and the sea breeze and the water view helped ease the pain a little during our stay.

Our first dilemma? How I was going to clean the remaining stubborn barnacle scales from the entire underneath the hull of the boat? It was a mess and seemed almost a daunting task. Lisa did some online research and finally found a product called On & Off and boy what a time-saver it turned out to be. After being brushed on the hull the product instantly goes to work and dissolves, the barnacle residue. I applied the On & Off solution by brush, let it work a bit, then I scraped a little and rinsed. I did this two times on the entire hull, three times in a few tough spots.

The bottom line is, it’s really better to take care of the bottom painting chore before this happens and, in our case, we should have done it a lot sooner.

Lisa kept me drinking lots of water (above – here I am asking for more) and reminded me to wear my mask and gloves to keep all the chemicals and fumes off my body and out of my lungs. I had prepared ahead of time by procuring old clothes from the local Goodwill store; I will throw them away in a few days.

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We are ultimately on our way to Key West but we’re stopping in Marathon for a week to visit with a group of Looper friends who are staying at Sombrero Dockside. Last year when we brought a friend’s boat down to Key West for him we found out about this little boat club on the Florida Bay side of the island, we stayed a few days and really liked it. So, back in January, we checked into the possibility of securing a slip for a week in late February. Our chances looked good since a few members would be traveling which would leave a few slips available.

This tiki hut is called “The Cone of Knowledge” by the residents of this little boat club. Within minutes of docking, the welcoming committee made sure to inform us of the daily tradition of cocktails and conversation at 4 o’clock under the hut.

My friend Diane pointed out this pod (above-right) on a banana tree over by Sombrero Dockside. I’ve never seen how bananas look as they grow on a tree. This flower-type pod is called a banana heart. Fascinating!

Wish we had a photo of all the boaters in the club who welcomed us into our slip. Unfortunately, we were too busy tying up to have taken one but we have to tell you the owners of this club are a friendly group of boaters.

Jim looks like he’s losing at Domino tonight.

Harbour Cay Club has one of the nicest boater’s lounges we’ve ever been to. very comfortable with a full kitchen. I imagine they have some great parties here.

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